Change or rekey · Springwater
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
The keys the seller handed over came in a sandwich bag: six unlabelled copies for two locks of different makes from different decades.
In plain words
Moving into a home is the classic moment for this service, because you inherit whatever hardware and whatever key copies the previous owners left behind. The locksmith walks every exterior door with you and sorts the locks into three piles: sound hardware worth keeping and rekeying, worn hardware worth replacing, and doors with no deadbolt at all. Everything that stays is pinned to one new key, new locks are keyed to match, and old copies floating around town stop mattering. You leave the visit knowing exactly which key opens which door and how many of them exist.
How the visit goesThe brass handleset has gone blotchy and green where the winter salt reaches it, and the coating on the deadbolt is lifting in flakes. It still locks, but it looks tired beside the fresh paint on the door.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
How the visit goes
Exposure, weather and finish
The locksmith looks at where the door lives. A side entrance beside a salted driveway, a south-facing front door in full sun and a sheltered porch each treat a finish differently, and the residential hardware label scores finish durability as its own category for exactly this reason. Existing hardware is examined for pitting, peeling and green bloom, which shows how hard the spot is on metal. That guides the choice between a PVD brass, a satin nickel, a powder-coated black or a stainless product, and whether a storm door or a small hood would help. Matching the rest of the entrance comes last, once the finish will survive the location.
Setting and reinforcing the strike
The strike side is where a replacement earns most of its value. With the door closed, the bolt is thrown and its mark checked against the pocket so the strike can be positioned to accept the full throw without rubbing. A shallow pocket is deepened until the bolt seats to its stop. Then a reinforced strike or a strike box is fitted using 75 millimetre screws that pass through the jamb and bite into the framing behind it, which is what stops a jamb splitting under a kick. Where an old forced entry has cracked the wood, it is glued and dowelled or a repair plate is fitted first.
Keys counted, named and planned
You receive the agreed number of keys, cut from the new pinning and tried in every door they should open, plus any code cards for a restricted system, which are what future copies are cut from. It is worth deciding on the spot who gets one and where the spare lives, ideally with a trusted neighbour or in a lockbox rather than in a drawer inside. If the house is now on a single key, retire every old key so none can be confused with the new one. A written list of which key does what goes in the home file.
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
In the van
Adjustable latch or bolt
Reinforced strike plate and strike box
Graded deadbolt
Boring jig and hole saws
Key blanks and key cutter
Lock Replacement & Upgrade
What affects the quote
Authorization needed from a property manager or landlord
A rental or condominium unit sometimes needs sign-off from a property manager or landlord before a lock is changed, and new keys may need to reach more than one party afterward. Confirming who is authorized and who receives keys is worked out before the new hardware goes in.
Keys cut
Each key is counted, and restricted keys cut against a card are a different item from standard blanks. Say how many people need one and the quote lists them.
Older and mortise hardware
Servicing an original mortise case, sourcing a compatible cylinder or fitting a conversion plate on a century door involves more assessment and fitting time than a standard cylindrical replacement.
What to have ready
- Do you want every exterior door to open with one key?
- How many keys does the household need, and should copying be restricted?
- Do you own the home, or rent it with the landlord's agreement to change locks?
Lock Replacement & Upgrade: questions
QuestionsWill a new lock fit the holes already in my door?
Usually, yes. Most residential doors are prepared to standard sizes, a 54 millimetre cross bore and a backset of 60 or 70 millimetres, and most modern hardware adjusts between those backsets. The locksmith measures before choosing, so the new lock is matched to the door rather than the other way around. Where an older mortise lock or an unusual bore is found, filler plates, extension kits or a carefully jigged new bore bring the door to standard.
What does a higher grade of lock actually give me?
Grades follow ANSI/BHMA standards, with Grade 1 the highest and Grade 3 the lightest, and residential hardware carries a separate label that scores security, durability and finish. The grade reports how the lock performed on the standard's own operational, strength and security tests; a higher grade often comes with a longer bolt, a sturdier housing, pins that resist picking and a strike built to anchor into the framing, but those features are worth confirming on the specific model rather than assumed from the grade alone.
My deadbolt only locks if I push the door. Will a new lock cure that?
The push is a sign the bolt and the strike pocket are out of line, which is a door and frame matter more than a lock fault. A new deadbolt is welcome if the old one is worn, but the visit also adjusts the strike, deepens the pocket or tightens hinges so the bolt throws freely with the door simply closed. Done together, the door locks with a fingertip and the new hardware works as designed.
Related services
- Deadbolt InstallationThe front door has a handsome lever and a keyed knob, and that is all.
- Vintage Mortise Lock ServiceYou bought a house with its original hardware and a bag of loose keys.
- Smart Lock InstallationThe rental turns over every few months and each time you drive across town to swap keys, then wonder whether copies were made.