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Hands comparing detached lock cylinders beside loose keys on a workbench. — Broken Key Extraction, Midhurst
Person holding a key beside a brass-colored deadbolt on an open painted door while another person watches from inside. — Home Lockout Service, Midhurst

Lockouts · Midhurst

Broken Key Extraction in Midhurst

You were locking up on the way out when the key broke in the lock.

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In plain words

A car key that breaks in the door or the ignition is handled with the same extraction tools, with one difference. On most vehicles the plastic head of the key carries the transponder chip and the remote buttons, and that half is usually intact in your hand. Once the blade is drawn out of the lock, a new blade can often be cut and fitted to the existing head, so the chip keeps talking to the car without reprogramming. The ignition wafers are checked for disturbance and the steering lock is confirmed free. Proof of ownership is asked for before work begins.

Sound familiar?

The key went in like any other morning, you turned it, and something gave with a small metallic click. The bow is still between your fingers. The rest of the blade is sitting inside the deadbolt, and the door is locked.

How the visit goes

Broken Key Extraction

How the visit goes

Steel push bar with a latch housing, hinge plate, screws, screwdriver and tape measure on a worn bench beside an open box. — Midhurst
Two technicians in green shirts look over a metal tray holding a chrome tool beside a white van with open rear doors. — Midhurst
  1. What has already been tried

    Before choosing a tool the locksmith asks what has gone into the keyway since the break. Tweezers often push a fragment deeper; a screwdriver tip can bend pins; a drop of glue on the other half bonds to nothing useful and leaves a film that has to be dissolved before extractors will slide. A second key jammed on top of the first is a common find. None of this is anything to be embarrassed about; it just changes the plan, and knowing about it in advance means the right solvent, a plug follower or a spare cylinder is in the van before work starts.

  2. Bringing the plug back to rest

    Nothing slides out of a rotated plug, because the pins that the key lifted are still sitting at the shear line and holding the blade. So when the key snapped mid-turn, the first job is to return the plug to its resting position. The locksmith applies gentle rotational pressure with a tension tool, feeling for the point where the pins drop back into the plug and the keyway lines up with the cylinder body. Sometimes a light tap on the face helps the pins settle. Only once the plug is at rest is the fragment free to move, and only then do the extractors go in.

  3. A cylinder that has been looked after

    Extraction usually doubles as a service. The keyway has been blown clear of grit and salt, the pins and springs checked for wear, the cylinder cap snugged if it had loosened, and dressed with the lubricant its maker specifies rather than a one-size-fits-all product, since some cylinders take a dry graphite or PTFE spray and others forbid graphite outright. General household oils and sprays commonly collect dust and clog the pin chambers. A puff of the right lubricant twice a year, spring and fall, keeps the cylinder turning freely, and a key that starts to need force is an early message worth acting on before it breaks.

Broken Key Extraction

In the van

  • Key blanks and code cutter

  • Compressed air for the keyway

  • Hook key extractors

  • Tension tool for resetting the plug

  • Spiral key extractors

Double glass doors in metal frames with a horizontal push bar, beside a brick wall, with a parking lot and trees outside. — Midhurst

Broken Key Extraction

What affects the quote

  1. Drilling and a replacement cylinder

    On the rare occasion a cylinder must be sacrificed, the price includes the new cylinder or complete deadbolt plus fitting it, and that is agreed with you before the drill is picked up.

  2. Door or strike adjustment

    When the key broke because the bolt was binding in a swollen or sagging door, correcting hinges, strike or weatherstrip is offered and quoted as its own item.

  3. Number of keys cut

    Copies are counted individually. One replacement for a single occupant and four for a household are different lines, and you choose the number on the spot.

What to have ready

  • Where did the key break: a house door, a padlock, a car door or an ignition?
  • Was the lock frozen or the door swollen when it happened?
  • Is it a car key with a chip or remote buttons in the head?
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Broken Key Extraction: questions

Questions
Is a broken key a sign the whole lock is worn out?

Sometimes, and the visit answers it. A key that failed from its own fatigue in a clean, smooth cylinder says nothing against the lock. A key that broke because the pins were worn flat, the cap had loosened or the keyway was full of grit says the cylinder needs a service or a rekey. One that broke in a corroded, pitted plug is telling you the lock is due for replacement.

Can you extract a key from a padlock, mailbox or filing cabinet?

Yes. Small cylinders in padlocks, mailboxes, desk drawers, filing cabinets and cam locks on lockers hold a fragment the same way a door does, and the same slim hooks and spirals fit them. Their keyways are narrower, so it is finer work. Where a padlock is not worth saving, the locksmith will say so and offer a cut-off and a new padlock keyed to your preference instead.

How long does the extraction usually take?

It depends on how the piece is sitting. A protruding fragment in a plug at rest can be out in moments. A deep piece behind lifted pins takes patient work with hooks and spirals. A glued or corroded fragment may mean removing the cylinder and freeing it from behind. Cutting and testing the new key, and any door adjustment, add their own time. The locksmith gives a sense of it after the first look.

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