

Lockouts · Midhurst
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening in Midhurst
You are inside, the deadbolt is thrown, and the thumb-turn will not budge.
In plain words
This service has a season here. The first wet fortnight of winter sends meltwater into keyways that freezes overnight, and doors on the north and shaded sides of a building stay iced the longest. Salt spray from driveways and walkways leaves a crust that thickens with every thaw. Then summer humidity swells wood doors until the bolt drags in its pocket. A jammed lock opening in these conditions means thawing without boiling water, flushing out salt, drying the cylinder, and dressing it with a lubricant that sheds moisture, along with a check of the door so the same weather does not jam it again next month.
How the visit goesThe lock works, but only if you lean on the door with your hip while turning the key. After a week of humid weather the bolt is jammed against the strike plate, and without that push the key stops halfway.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
How the visit goes


What is inside the keyway
A small mirror and a bright light show what the keyway has collected. Salt crust, sand, metal filings, sawdust from a renovation and the gummy residue of household spray oils are all common, and each reads differently: a dry gritty feel, a sticky drag, or a plug that will not accept the key to full depth. Ice shows as frost on the cylinder face and a key that stops short. A cylinder cap that has loosened lets the plug sit crooked so the pins never line up. This look decides whether the cylinder needs a flush and dry lubricant, a thaw, a re-tightened cap, or a full strip on the bench.
Thawing ice and clearing salt
Ice is melted, never chipped. A lock de-icer or gentle warmth on the cylinder face turns the frozen meltwater back to liquid so it can drain, and the key is then worked until the plug turns. Boiling water is kept well away, because it refreezes inside and can crack cold brass. Salt crust is flushed out with contact cleaner and the plug is dried thoroughly before any lubricant goes in, since salt and moisture sealed under lubricant keep corroding. The cylinder is then dressed with the lubricant specified for that product, applied once everything is dry. If the weatherstrip has frozen to the door, that bond is released and the seal wiped.
A door that closes without a fight
If the door was the cause, the hinges, strike and seal have been set so the bolt has room. Keeping it that way is a seasonal habit: each spring and fall, try the lock with the door closed and no pressure on it, and snug the hinge and strike screws if the door has begun to drop. Wood keeps moving with humidity, so a door that swells in August may need a touch on the strike in September. A door that suddenly needs a push to lock is telling you early, while the fix is still a screwdriver and not a seized bolt.
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
In the van
Replacement tailpiece or cam
Plug follower and repinning kit
Mortise case spring and hub
Replacement cylinder
Electronic contact cleaner

Seized & Jammed Lock Opening
What affects the quote
When the call comes in
An evening, weekend or holiday call for a jammed lock costs the same amount as a weekday one. The locksmith looks at what is actually jammed once on site, and the exact figure follows from that, not from the clock.
The drive to you
Driving time is part of every call, and a property at the end of a long rural road is a different trip from one a few streets over.
Cutting fresh keys
If a worn key was part of the trouble, keys cut from the code or a fresh master are counted individually, so say how many the household or staff need.
What to have ready
- Has there been a thaw and freeze, or a stretch of humid weather, this week?
- Does the key go fully in and refuse to turn, or turn without moving the bolt?
- Was the door painted, re-hung or fitted with new weatherstripping recently?
Seized & Jammed Lock Opening: questions
QuestionsThe thumb-turn is stuck from inside and we need that door to get out. What should we do?
Use another exit for now and call. From the inside the fault is usually a bolt pinned by the frame or a bent spindle, both of which the locksmith frees without damage. A main exit door should open from inside without a key or special knowledge, so the repair leaves the door doing exactly that, and if the hardware on it was the wrong type for an exit, a thumb-turn deadbolt is suggested.
Can an old mortise lock in a century home be serviced rather than replaced?
Often, and keeping the original hardware is usually worth trying first, since it fits the door and suits the house, though condition and the availability of matching parts decide whether a repair is realistic. The case comes out of the door edge, the decades of dust and hardened grease are cleaned away, a broken spring or worn hub is replaced with a matching part, and the contact surfaces get fresh grease. If a bit key or a cylinder has worn, a new key is cut or the cylinder rebuilt.
If the cylinder is replaced, can it be keyed to my existing key?
Often, yes. A replacement cylinder in the same keyway can be pinned to the cuts on the key already on your ring, so the front and back doors stay on one key and nothing else in the house changes. If the old keyway is no longer made or the key is badly worn, the new cylinder comes with fresh keys and the other doors can be rekeyed to match in the same visit.
